My first step into the Indian Ocean was absolutely shocking, I never figured that this smaller ocean would be so warm compared to my home waves in Northern California Pacific. Back home, I grew up playing in the Pacific’s chilly waters for hours on end, which gave me a solid understanding of how the ocean moves. It's the polar opposite of my California snowboarding/skiing/surfing experience. Here in Bali, there’s absolutely no need for a wetsuit—the water is warm, bath-like and the salt content feels heavier, making me more buoyant and ready to tackle each incoming set.
From Novice to Confident Surfer
I wouldn’t call myself a total beginner. I’ve done my fair share of surfing back home in Half Moon Bay in NorCal, and thanks to countless online courses and YouTube tips, I’ve got a decent foundation. Lately, I’ve also been combining my gym training with my surfing sessions, which makes a huge difference. All those core-strength workouts, balance challenges, and flexibility drills translate directly to paddling, popping up on the board, and controlling my movements in tricky situations.
Local Vibes and Verbal Encouragement
One of the coolest parts of surfing in Bali is the supportive surf culture. Locals might not physically push you into waves, but their upbeat cheers and quick pointers from a few feet away can give you that extra spark of motivation. However, I also felt a little unsure of the local etiquette - as i didn't want to get in the way of more experienced surfers. I always try to maintain my situational awareness to stay safe and considerate. Whenever I’m nearby, I’ll hear someone shout a quick tip or friendly boost—just what I need to refocus and go after the next swell.
The Backflip Exit
I’ll never forget that moment I caught one of my largest waves so far. With a rush of adrenaline and a little show-off flair, I decided to nail a backflip dismount right at the end. Totally intentional, and honestly one of the coolest ways to exit a wave. Sure, I probably could have just stepped off the board, but that flip felt like the perfect mix of my gym training and surfer spirit coming together.
Bumps, Scratches, and Staying Positive
Not every wave ends in style, though. On one wave, I wiped out on a big set and ended up with a solid scratch across my chest. I didn't even notice it until a local surfer pointed it out the end of my surf session, but I just laughed it off. Every bruise, ding, or scratch is a reminder that I’m pushing my limits. It’s all part of the journey, and it keeps me hungry for improvement. I earned a new scar.
Indian Ocean vs. Pacific: Rolling Waves and Longer Pauses
One thing that stood out to me right away is how the Indian Ocean’s waves roll in differently than those at home. They feel smoother somehow, with a slightly longer rest between sets—perfect for catching your breath and getting positioned. That subtle change in timing makes for a fresh challenge, but it’s also incredibly satisfying when you sync up with the rhythm and time your ride just right.
Final Thoughts
Bali is proving to be an unforgettable chapter in my surfing story. The warm waters, local camaraderie, and that perfect mix of adrenaline and tranquility all keep me coming back for more. Even when I’m stumbling over the foam or sporting a fresh scratch, I remind myself that each session is a step closer to being the surfer I want to be—confident, strong, and always open to whatever the ocean has in store. Surf on!
About diamondeus
This archived article retains its original byline. It has not been relabeled as a new Founder Field Note or personal experience.